View Full Version : Resurection of the GPZ begins

The Big Spank Daddy
May 29th, 2004, 06:29 PM
It just made me sick to see it just sitting there collecting dust. Shame, because it is such a smooth sweet ride.

Ebay and other resources have yielded nothing black. Lots of red but no black.

I stripped off the front plastic and assed the damage. No way I can repair the front fender. It's only $150 new, so it looks like Kawasaki will make a buck there.

The right lower has a hole in it about the size of a quarter and the upper mount locations are broken off. I can easily repair that.

The upper fairing has the entire lower right side torn off. It all looks intact, but it is a fairly large and heavy piece. Two of the headlight mounting points are broken off and will have to be remounted.

I removed the front wheel and checked for true. It is in good shape. The front triple clamp was knocked out of alignment. I removed the forks and checked them with a dial indicator and they are true. I disammebled them and changed the oil. Remounted the forks and re-aligned the triple clamps. Took it out for a spin and all seems well.

With a bit of luck I will get the fairings put back together. Update to come.

The Big Spank Daddy
May 31st, 2004, 07:46 PM
Looks like I will be able to salvage the right lower fairing. I already have half of the pieces back on it. It might be a strech to have it ready this weekend, but maybe the next is do able.

[ May 31, 2004, 20:46: Message edited by: Chris Donnelly ]

The Big Spank Daddy
June 3rd, 2004, 05:28 PM
Lower right fairing repaired and ready for touch up. Upper fairing was broken into two large pieces. I now have them together as one and waiting for the first application of JB Weld to set up. Because of the large size I used some screen material in the sticky goop to help reinforce it.

It will take at least 6 more applications. This is because the goop tends to run down hill and it is best to let it set in a horizontal position. Also I have to do both the inside and out side.

June 4th, 2004, 06:21 AM
I just wanted to say that you are doing an excellent job of starting and maintaining your own thread Chris. Not many men are capable of doing that!


Seriously though, I hope you enjoy some good luck with your repairs, I have never had any success at all trying to repair mc plastics. The only thing I ever had that worked was plastic welding, and that usually cracked somewhere next to the weld eventually (this was in a high-stress area that was prone to cracking naturally- a design flow).
You know that if you buy red plastics, it can be painted black... :D :D

June 4th, 2004, 08:50 AM
I don't understand why this bike isn't a street fighter already...

Brian Montgomery
June 4th, 2004, 09:01 AM
You guys should learn how to work with fiberglass...it is so simple, light and strong! It works on plastic too.

June 4th, 2004, 11:27 AM
Originally posted by Brian Montgomery:
It works on plastic too. I never had any success with that... of course, I don't have the madskilz that you do with it. The stuff you repair looks like it never was damaged when you get done with it- I can't duplicate it!

June 4th, 2004, 11:44 AM
Never tried fiberglas on ABS. Maybe I should try. Anyone got any cracked plasctics for me to practice on? I won't guarantee anything.

The Big Spank Daddy
June 4th, 2004, 05:04 PM
I'm going out on a limb here, but I think Charles might have some... :D

The problem with glass is that the fabric takes up a lot of space thickness wise. Though it works well in unseen areas, it is not the best choise for area in view. For the areas on the outside I will "V" out that area in a very acute angle that will leave a wide area after sanding that bonds more surface area, yet not leaving a raised "bump". On the back side where it cannot be seen I leave it nice and thick with the re-inforcement for strength.

The nice thing about JB Weld is that it sands and paints nicely. It is also some what flexible. I'm sure you guys saw Jeff's EX250, other than the mis-matched paint, could you realy tell what all had been repaired. The thing with the EX was that it was broken in a high stress structural area, the mirror mount, which is also the main mounting point for the fairing. It was broken into 7 pieces from the mirror/fairing mount all the way to the turn signal mount. It never cracked and the paint never peeled or chipped.

[ June 04, 2004, 18:05: Message edited by: Chris Donnelly ]

June 4th, 2004, 05:13 PM
My experience has been that some manufacturers use different types of plastic in different areas (like a different compound of ABS) that works well with repairs, and other areas that don't work well.
Sounds like you have a handle on it though.
You can also use the fiberglass on the back side, and use the resin to fill in the "groove" you cut. That works well sometimes and is also sandable/paintable.

The Big Spank Daddy
June 5th, 2004, 06:01 PM
Lower right is now repaired, sanded and awaiting paint. I'll have that done before sunset today.

The upper fairing is all now one piece again and it fits. I applied the majic goo to the back side first. After turning it over the upper crack is barely visible. The lower crack is a bit more prominant. Depending on how the painting of the right lower turns out I will decide if I'm going to tackle the upper in the same maner.

I went by Wild West and my front fender is only $137. I may get it ordered next week depending on my finances.

June 5th, 2004, 08:19 PM
I'll piggy-back my GPZ progress on your thread Chris.

Pulled the upper, left, and right off today. Repaired the various cracks, broken tabs, gashes, scratches, holes, etc. Used a kit I bought from http://www.urethanesupply.com/. Has two party epoxy similar to JB Weld, as well as a super glue type adhesive that is also a 2 parter. That stuff kicks ***. Way, way, better than super glue. Great for mending broken tabs as it does not create adt'l space, but does chemically bond to the plastic and is sandable. If you do it on both sides like I did then it bonds the hell out of the broken pieces. Also great for locking a piece in place while you use other methods for long term holding. Bonds in about 2 seconds, so you have to work very quick with it. If you get any on you, it burns like hell.

The kit also has a soft plastic mold you can use to create missing tabs and such (if you have an identical one you can copy off of). As I retained all my broken pieces and was able to get them on I did not use it. There is a powder and liquid adhesive that is used to fill the mold and make the replacement piece. Looks like it would work well. Given how the year has gone so far, I will probably be giving it a try soon. :mad:

Probably the best part of the kit was a book, or maybe I order that seperately, can't remember. In any case it is from the same company. It is a full color well illustrated book about how to repair plastic. All types, but focuses mainly on motorcycles. Teaches about the different kinds of plastics, which methods work with which type, step by step instructions. Outstanding book. http://www.urethanesupply.com/book.html Website is also a wealth of info on platic repair. This guy is truly the platic repair guru.

For a couple of really good sized holes I used some fiberglass tape to give structure to the epoxy. I also tried out a plastic welder on one of the cracks, but it was really to much trouble and a combo of the super glue stuff and the epoxy is just as good.

Anyway, got everything nice and pretty and then sanded everything down, applied 3 coats of prime sanding with 320 grit after the first 2. When the last dries I will use 400 and then it is time to paint. Will hopefully get all the painting completed tomorrow.

I am using spray paint and am a little aprehensive about how it is going to turn out. I almost bought a HVLP gun, but then I would need an air compressor, etc, etc. So, hopefully this will turn out OK. If not, then I'll sand it all down and paint 'er black. Maybe even try out Spray Liner. :D

With any luck, the rear set and clutch bar I ordered from a salvage shop in Ca will be here next week and I will be back on the road next weekend.

OK, it's been a long day. Stupid hurts. Later.

The Big Spank Daddy
June 5th, 2004, 08:26 PM
Wow! that stuff sounds great. I painted the lower right and will color sand it tomorrow. My upper is progressing well and it looks like I will have it all done by Thursday, put it all on the bike Friday and ready to ride for the weekend.

Charles, any chance those guys have a front fender, I'll settle for red at this point?

June 5th, 2004, 08:34 PM
It's possible, I know they had a front ($200, red), and at least one side. I'll check with them on Monday.

The Big Spank Daddy
June 7th, 2004, 07:21 PM
Charles, the front fender is only $137 new. If you can get a front fender for $50 I'll take it, if not I'm going with new.

I already have the upper fairing completely repaired and painted it tonight. I color sanded the right lower and it is now 100% ready. I'll color sand the upper fairing tomorrow and should have it all together by Thursday, except for the front fender.

The humidity was way to high to paint and I got a lot of haze. But at least it is all one color now. I thought I had the surface realy clean, but apparently not. I got a lot of fish eyes. Hope they will come out when I color sand it.

The Big Spank Daddy
June 8th, 2004, 05:33 PM
It's done! (except for the front fender)

At a distance there is no telling. However, up close you can see that the paint is a bit dull. I bought some polish for it tonight and will try and partialy resolve that problem.

Let's add up the numbers.

Ins gave me $3,228.16 (bought the Bandit for $3100)
JB Weld was - $8.00
Paint was - $8.00
Frt fender is appox - $150.00

Basicaly, for having to live with a bit of a cosmetic flaw, I got one of the nicest '98 Bandits you'll ever see and a '96 GPZ. I spent about 20 hours total fixing the GPZ. All in all I'd say I got a good deal.

The Big Spank Daddy
June 8th, 2004, 08:10 PM

Just got back from PO's and decide to try out my new Sylvania Silverstar head light bulb. Don't take this as the Gosphel but I belive it is suppose to be like 3 to 4 times brighter than a standard H4 bulb and use 30% less energy.

What I've heard and read about other bulbs like the blue one, is that they are mostly gimmicks. Basically they just color the glass. But this Sylvania uses a different gas, and I believe a high tech alloy for the filament. The filament is actualy what reduces the energy used and the gas is what increases the brightness.

3 to 4 times brighter? Ehhhh, maybe. However, it is definitely a lot brighter. I'd say the low beam is more like the high beam as far as brightness.


But on the other had, the GPZ ran flawlessly! :D It does need new shoes though. I have a perfect set of race take offs that will fit it nicely. Hopefully I'll have the fender some time next week and will be back to riding it full time again.

[ June 08, 2004, 21:37: Message edited by: Chris Donnelly ]

The Big Spank Daddy
June 16th, 2004, 08:34 PM

It now has a front fender and I'll be riding it to work tomorrow for its first real test.

Although Cindy and I rode it to Po's Tuesday, that's only 7 miles from the house. Tomorrow will be its first real distance test.