View Full Version : Brake Lines

May 8th, 2004, 06:28 PM
I just replaced a pair of Goodridge Kevlar lines because one slipped out of the internal fairing clip and got smashed in the steering lock. A one inch length was squished and would swell when the lever was pulled. They seem to be rather delicate and the fittings and banjo bolts were made out of aluminum. After this experience I don't think I'd recommend them for street use.

I replaced them with a pair of Galfer stainless lines. They were waaay heavier than the kevlar ones but they came with steel fittings and banjo bolts and felt very stout. They were also the first ones I've seen that had a bleed screw up at the master cylinder connection which made bleeding alot easier.

Sean Smith
May 8th, 2004, 09:57 PM
Two weeks ago I put on Galfer SS brakelines front and back. I LOVE them! Except right after I put them on I was taking it for a test run and as I was turning it around (doing about 5 mph)I almost busted my *** when I touched the front leever. It took a little while to get use to the sensitivity.

[ May 09, 2004, 02:55: Message edited by: Sean Smith ]

May 8th, 2004, 10:53 PM
Pete, I just put some new lines on and the Galfer HH pads. You talk about a humongous difference the lines and pads are over stock. You just can't ride the GSXR 1000 without doing something to those stock lines and pads on the front side. The rear has a problem locking up for some reason even if you barely get on them. I hardly ever use the rear so there's no need to waste money on the SS line. See ya soon! :D

May 10th, 2004, 04:59 PM

You can always remove material from the rear pad to reduce the lock up problem.

May 10th, 2004, 05:35 PM
Well have to meet again for some unfinished work. I'll work on the material issues tonight. I stopped by today at 300pm but no one home, comming back from the TWS track day event. :D

May 11th, 2004, 08:50 PM
Soap Box time:

One thing I have noticed about built line kits is they have no swivel. This causes the line to torque up as the suspension expands and contracts. Obviously not a huge issue but one that can be remedied if you sissies would build you own lines.

Putting one swivel fitting in the line allows it to rotate as suspension length changes. This is a good thing as it reduces stress on the crimped fittings. Less stress equals longer life.

I have been building lines for sometime now and have never had one fail in service. The sweet thing is you can makes lines for your exact application.

Personally I would leave the rubber hoses on the back unless you have a cosmetic thing going on.

Two tricks to make the rear brake less sensitive to lock:
1. Lower the rear brake pedal. Makes you have to work harder to apply pressure.

2. Remove material from the brake pad. Its all about swept area. By removing material you reduce swept area and braking power. Which in a rear brake can be a good thing.

My preference is to remove material from the leading and training edges of the pad. Make sure you do both pads exactly the same.

Remember to leave enough pad to cover the piston diameter. If you eat into the area directly under the piston you can get it to jam which is a bad thing.

May 11th, 2004, 08:56 PM
Yes, I am doing exactly what your instructing Obe One. tongue.gif