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Thread: Recommended oil -Shell Rotella T (Walmart)

  1. #1
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    Default Recommended oil -Shell Rotella T (Walmart)

    $7.00- $13.00 a gallon and also sold at Sam's you can also buy it by the barrel. ****, I never knew about this brand.

    Shell Rotella Synthetic - Blue Bottle not the White.

    Here's some information:

    http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html
    http://www.lubrizoil.com
    http://www.lubelink.com
    http://www.api.org
    http://www.ccsforum.com/index.php#1
    Schreck

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    Tony - I am a retired Shell chemist and used to use Rotella synthetic blend until I eventually ruined clutches in my Honda PC800 and Honda Sabre. Rotella is not JASO rated for use in wet clutches. It will take several thousand miles for the clutch to begin slipping. It is not formulated for or tested in motorcycles. It is formulated for a diesel engine running at low RPM's with a 10 gallon oil sump. It is not for a high revving, wet clutch engine that shares oil with a transmission using 3 or 4 quarts. I'd say the difference in the performance of these oils is almost as big as the difference in the performance of these vehicles and that is why they were formulated the way they are.

    Rotella's new API SM/CJ4 formulation is hitting the shelves today. This is the biggest formulation change for Rotella in 20 years and no one knows what this will do to motorcycles. This has been reformulated to meet the new EPA standards for the new 2007 diesel engines.

    People like Rotella because it is a cheap synthetic. Most people do not realize it is a cheap synthetic because it is actually just a highly refined Group III petroleum oil and not a true synthetic like a PolyAlphaOlefin or a Polydiester chemical group IV synthetic oil.

    Let other amateur riders who know little about engines or oil do the "testing". They usually are very familiar with clutch replacements and haven't figured out why yet. The pro's nor the motorcycle manufacturers use this oil. Only those less knowledgeable.

    Always read your owners manual and follow their requirements. All wet clutch bikes newer than 1998 (This is when oils changed so much that JASO had to put in place this standard) specify to use a JASO MA oil or the less friction JASO MB standard. If the oil does not list these standards, it does not meet them and eventually you will be looking at a clutch replacement. Also pay close attention to the recommended oil weights. When you have it narrowed down to a few oils, a full chemical synthetic is the best way to go, followed by a group III petroleum oil synthetic, followed by a group II petroleum oil. Try to compare the specifications of the oils which can usually be found on data sheets from the manufacturers and their web sites. Look up Mobil1 car oil and Mobil1 motorcycle data sheets, and you will see big differences in the physical properties of the oils. Mobil will not recommend their car/truck oils for motorcycles that have wet clutches. They know what would happen.

    Oil is cheap. Engines and clutches are expensive. Generally you get what you pay for. Motor oils today are designed for specific uses and to meet EPA requirements. Back in 1998 and earlier, it really didn't matter much which oil you used, but it does today.
    Tim Vipond
    2006 K1200LT with 70,000 AMSOIL (changed yearly) road miles, 3 AMSOIL MSRH laps
    AMSOIL Dealer
    http://www.lubedealer.com/TimVipond/ cell 713-301-1872 25% discounts available.

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    Good information Tim. Thanks.
    If you find your self in a fair fight.... your tactics suck....
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    Jason

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    Tim- since the can of oil has been opened- - what about on non wet clutch bikes? ..aside from staying with in factory weight specs, does the type of oil matter?

    and to go off subject a bit.. how about my car; Porsche likes Mobile1. I figure that's just some type of company contract...

    ...and ya don't have to sell me...I'm already an Amsoil user.

    TIA
    mm
    Michael
    445whp LS3 Miata

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    Miykl,

    From my experience, and let me preface by saying that I am no expert, once you start using a synthetic, it's best to maintain using it because of possible complications with switching to another synthetic. It is my understanding that going from an oil product to a synthetic is ok but changing from one synthetic to another can cause problems do to differences in the formula. Tim, your opinion is warranted and requested on this issue. Thanks in advance.
    If you find your self in a fair fight.... your tactics suck....
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    Jason

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    Oh yeah, I use Shell Rotella Synthetic in my Duramax and haven't had a problem with it.
    If you find your self in a fair fight.... your tactics suck....
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    Jason

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    Michael - For motorcycles with dry clutches and that don't share the oil with the transmission, most high quality truck oils will work fine in the engine. Just follow your owner manuals oil recommendations.

    Mobil 1 is a very fine oil. It is similar to AMSOIL in many respects. Just stay within the manufacturers oil change intervals and you should be fine. You can actually find some of the requirements for you particular car at https://www.amsoil.com/scripts/runis...msoiloaf:index . You can compare many car oils at https://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1971.pdf .

    Jason - many people switch brands of of oil back and forth and even synthetic to petroleum. I haven't really heard of any problems. Sometimes the additives can clash so it is best to stick with the same oil during an oil change and for topping off. Some people run into problems when they mix 4 different types of oil in the same oil change. I also recommend changing the oil filter for every oil change especially when changing types of oil. For those concerned about mixing oil or if they have a dirty engine, engine flushes are available such as https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aef.aspx.

    Rotella Synthetic is a good choice for a Duramax. You may find it useful to look at this as it compares several diesel oils https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aef.aspx .

    If any of you want to try AMSOIL, let me know and I will find the best products for you at well below retail pricing.
    Tim Vipond
    2006 K1200LT with 70,000 AMSOIL (changed yearly) road miles, 3 AMSOIL MSRH laps
    AMSOIL Dealer
    http://www.lubedealer.com/TimVipond/ cell 713-301-1872 25% discounts available.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 143LRSD
    Miykl,

    ........
    if'n the oil companies can blend them, so can i!! I got a really cool chemistry set!! Make really cool flame colors and the occassional.... ahhhh...BOOM!
    Michael
    445whp LS3 Miata

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    Outstanding Tim, thanks for the input.
    If you find your self in a fair fight.... your tactics suck....
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    Jason

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    Make really cool flame colors and the occassional.... ahhhh...BOOM!
    You worry me sometime......
    If you find your self in a fair fight.... your tactics suck....
    __________________
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    Jason

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    ok since we are on the topic I ask the bimmer dealer about switching to amsoil, they said it wouldnt be worth it cost wise if I am doing my oil changes every 6 k? Any comments Tim like should I extended my change intervals if I go to amsoil or the bimmer dealer is on crack....I need guidance OB1 :JEDIOIL MASTER , threw that in for the Seans of the world
    Marc
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    Quote Originally Posted by 143LRSD
    Make really cool flame colors and the occassional.... ahhhh...BOOM!
    You worry me sometime......
    He only worries you sometimes?
    Richard

    '10 Tiger 1050
    '04 SV650 (sold)

    2009-2011 - Austin Chapter Admin
    2007-2008 - Austin Chapter President
    2005-2006 - Austin Chapter Secretary

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    hey Miykl's is my kinda people, I never worry about him, of course I am trying to go back to Iraq so consider the source
    Marc
    Grunt
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    Originally Posted by 143LRSD
    Quote:
    Make really cool flame colors and the occassional.... ahhhh...BOOM!


    You worry me sometime......


    He only worries you sometimes?
    Yeah, only sometimes because...well, I've been told that I worry a lot of people as well, so in my opinion Miykl really isn't that bad..... He uses house hold chemicals, I've been known to use industrial grade products.
    If you find your self in a fair fight.... your tactics suck....
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    Jason

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    Tim,

    Ive got an '02 6.6 Ltr Duramax Turbo Diesel with about 98K miles on it. Im about due for another oil change (last was about 7-8K miles ago) Which oils would you recommend? What difference would I be looking at, pros vs cons, etc of going with a synthetic vs regular oil, should I switch over to synthetic with this many miles on my truck?

    I know you could probably write a book answering all those questions. Thanks for any input
    Richard

    '10 Tiger 1050
    '04 SV650 (sold)

    2009-2011 - Austin Chapter Admin
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    2005-2006 - Austin Chapter Secretary

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    Quote Originally Posted by 143LRSD
    so in my opinion Miykl really isn't that bad..... He uses house hold chemicals, I've been known to use industrial grade products.
    I know you don't need to be reminded of what can be done with household chemicals!! what was scarry was when I was a kid blowing things up with gunpower taken out of shot gun shells. ...everybody has to start somewhere!!
    Michael
    445whp LS3 Miata

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    Hey, nothing like completely threadjacking Shreck's oil thread but how do you get multiple black cats to explode at the same time? I can't get the fuses synced. What's the trick?
    Darren Carlson
    1987 Hurricane 1000 (Sold)
    2003 Kawasaki KDX200
    2006 DRZ400SM
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    AMA#251131

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    Scout - I provide AMSOIL to all the BMW dealers in Houston and the one in North Dallas/Plano.

    I am on my second BMW K1200LT. BMWNA suggests changing to synthetic at 6,000 miles which is what I did on my 2000 K1200LT and did 12,000 mile AMSOIL oil changes until I sold it with 137,000 miles. For my 2006 K1200LT, I switched to AMSOIL at 600 miles as AMSOIL suggested and haven't used any oil at the 8500 mile mark. I plan to change it every 12,000 miles or once a year as warranted by AMSOIL. AMSOIL's new synthetic motorcycle oil and filter is warranted for twice the manufacturers recommended oil change interval up to 1 year. I've also noticed it runs cooler than other oils I tried, shifts better, and get a little better gas mileage. Plus with other oils my sight glass used to get dirty and with AMSOIL it cleaned up the sight glass. I imagine the same was happening with my engine.

    The most recent and best motorcycle oil comparison and info I've found is at https://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf.
    Tim Vipond
    2006 K1200LT with 70,000 AMSOIL (changed yearly) road miles, 3 AMSOIL MSRH laps
    AMSOIL Dealer
    http://www.lubedealer.com/TimVipond/ cell 713-301-1872 25% discounts available.

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    I run 10K mi intervals on my truck, 6k on the car, but still stick to the 3k on the bikes just cause I'm paranoid.
    Michael
    445whp LS3 Miata

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammer
    Hey, nothing like completely threadjacking Shreck's oil thread but how do you get multiple black cats to explode at the same time? I can't get the fuses synced. What's the trick?
    No ****! Tim you gonna owe me a CASE for plugging my thread with your business. I already bought one case off you last month.
    Schreck

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    Richard - Here are the AMSOIL products listed for your Duramax, (along with some of my comments). If your engine is in good condition (no leaks) then I suggest AMSOIL synthetic changing at 15,000 miles/1 year. Second change you can go longer up to 25,000 miles/1 year if mostly doing highway driving). Synthetic oil has been proven to be superior to petroleum oil, and AMSOIL makes the best.

    2002 CHEVROLET TRUCKS SILVERADO 2500 HD PICKUP 6.6L 8-cyl VIN Code 1 TurboDiesel

    FILTERS
    Oil Filter........ EAO52 AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter (Best filter - 25,000 miles normal/15,000 mile severe/1 year)
    Oil Filter........ 57202 WIX 57202 Oil Filter (S)
    Air Filter........ EAA123 AMSOIL Ea Air Filter (best air filter - 100,000 miles. Vacuum or blow clean every 25,000 miles)
    Air Filter........ 42487 WIX 42487 Air Filter (O)
    Fuel Filter........ P550743 P550743 Fuel Filter (S)
    Trans Filter........ P550606 P550606 Hydraulic Filter (S) [1]
    Cabin Filter........ 24805 WIX 24805 Cabin Air Filter (0)

    1. Spin - on


    BOSCH SPARK PLUGS
    All submodels:
    Plug........ NA
    Wire........ NR




    BOSCH WIPER BLADES
    All submodels:
    Driver side........ B40922 BOSCH MICRO EDGE WIPER BLADE
    Passenger side........ B40922 BOSCH MICRO EDGE WIPER BLADE


    LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS
    Engine Oil
    Grade 1......CI-4
    Series 3000 Synthetic 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil (best mpg)
    SAE 15W-40 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil (most commonly used)
    Synthetic Blend 15W-40 Diesel Oil (lowest price)
    Above 0°F......15W-40, 10W-30[1]
    Below 0°F......5W-40[2]
    Manual Transmission,NV4500.....GLS[3]
    Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90
    Manual Transmission,ZF S6-650.....SLF[4]
    Torque-Drive™ Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATD)
    Automatic Transmission.....AF3
    Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
    Torque-Drive™ Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATD)
    Differential, Front Full time 4WD.....GLS[5]
    Severe Gear 75W-90
    Differential, Front Selectable 4WD.....GL-5[6]
    80W-90
    Severe Gear 75W-90
    SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
    SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
    Standard Differential, Rear Others.....GL-5[7]
    75W-90
    Severe Gear 75W-90
    SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
    Differential, Rear W/ QS4 Axle.....GLS[8][9]
    Severe Gear 75W-90
    Transfer Case,W/ Manual TRC.....AF3
    Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
    Torque-Drive™ Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATD)
    Transfer Case,NV Electronic.....SLF[10]
    Fluids
    Power Steering Fluid.....PS
    Brake Fluid.....HB
    Clutch Fluid.....HB

    1. 15W-40 is preferred.
    2. at TEMPS below -18 °C (0 °F), use 5W-40 to improve cold.
    starting.
    3. Synthetic gear oil, GM part no. 12346190 or equivalent.
    4. SLF is GM part no. 12378515
    5. GLS is synthetic lubricant; use only GM part no. 12378557
    6. 80W-90 GL-5 is a synthetic lube; GM part no. 1052271.
    7. Synthetic lubricant, GM part no. 12378261, specification
    No. 9986115.
    8. GLS is synthetic lubricant; use only GM part no. 12378557
    9. Do not add friction modifier.
    10. SLF is GM part no. 12378508 (U.S.), 10953626 (CAN).


    CHASSIS LUBRICATION
    Two-wheel drive
    6 Fittings, 0 Plugs..........LB
    Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease
    Synthetic GHD Heavy-Duty EP Grease
    Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2
    Four-wheel drive
    11 Fittings, 0 Plugs..........LB
    Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease
    Synthetic GHD Heavy-Duty EP Grease
    Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2



    CAPACITIES
    Engine, with filter..........10.0 quarts[1]
    Cooling System, MT Initial Fill..........21.0 quarts
    Cooling System, AT Initial Fill..........20.0 quarts
    Automatic Transmission, Allison Initial Fill..........7.4 quarts[2][3]
    Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
    4 speed 4L80E..........14.0 quarts
    4 speed 4L60E..........11.0 quarts
    5 speed Allison..........13.0 quarts
    Manual Transmission, ZF S6-650..........13.0 pints
    Manual Transmission, NV4500 (TOPC)..........7.8 pints
    Differential, 8.25 ring gear Amer Front..........3.6 pints
    Differential, with 10.5 ring gear Amer Rear..........5.5 pints
    Differential, with 11 ring gear Dana Rear..........8.4 pints
    Differential, with 8.6 ring gear Amer Rear..........4.9 pints
    Differential, with 8.5 ring gear Amer Rear..........4.9 pints
    Differential, with 9.5 ring gear Amer Rear..........5.5 pints
    Differential, with 9.75 ring gear Rear..........5.9 pints
    Differential, with 11.5 ring gear Rear..........7.6 pints
    Differential, American 9.25 ring gear Front..........3.6 pints
    Transfer Case,NV236/246..........4.0 pints
    Transfer Case,NV261/263..........4.0 pints
    Transfer Case,NV149..........4.9 pints

    1. After refill check oil level.
    2. With ENG running at slow idle, shift TRANS FM
    Park to Drive, then to Neutral, then to Reverse, then
    back to Park.
    3. DO NOT drain the fluid if only the transmission spin-on oil
    filter is being replaced.


    TORQUES
    Oil Drain Plug.....62 ft-lbs
    Manual Transmission NV4500 Hex Head
    Fill Plug.....30 ft-lbs
    Drain Plug.....27 ft-lbs
    Manual Transmission NV4500 SQH
    Fill Plug.....30 ft-lbs
    Drain Plug.....30 ft-lbs
    Manual Transmission ZF S6-650
    Fill Plug.....26 ft-lbs
    Drain Plug.....26 ft-lbs



    SERVICE INTERVAL
    AMSOIL Product Recommendation and Drain Interval Guide (g1490)
    Tim Vipond
    2006 K1200LT with 70,000 AMSOIL (changed yearly) road miles, 3 AMSOIL MSRH laps
    AMSOIL Dealer
    http://www.lubedealer.com/TimVipond/ cell 713-301-1872 25% discounts available.

  22. #22
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    Tim- sending you a PM....
    Michael
    445whp LS3 Miata

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    not his fault shreck I started him down the garden path
    Marc
    Grunt
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    DR 125
    TTR 90
    RM 65
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    PATRIOT GUARD RIDER
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  24. #24
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    so Tim if I start using amsiol and start changing every 12k and my engine blows up amsoil will replace it?
    Marc
    Grunt
    K1200S BUMBLE BEE
    620 BABY DUC
    DR 125
    TTR 90
    RM 65
    PW 50
    PATRIOT GUARD RIDER
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schreck
    Quote Originally Posted by Hammer
    Hey, nothing like completely threadjacking Shreck's oil thread but how do you get multiple black cats to explode at the same time? I can't get the fuses synced. What's the trick?
    No ****! Tim you gonna owe me a CASE for plugging my thread with your business. I already bought one case off you last month.

    Haha...

    For what its worth i used Shell Rotella on my 2 Cyl 250, worked fine. But on the R6 - heck no!

    Moe` Agha

    RideSmart Instructor
    TexasTrackDays Instructor

    Your one stop shop - Andy @ Metric Motorcycles!


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